Another Day in Poe's Kitchen at The Rattlesnake
Chef Brian Poe shows you the world in the back of the house.Frigid Out There, Tropical in Here: The Beantown Mai Tai
We figured the obvious thing to do with Absolut Boston would be to highlight the black tea flavors to create a warming wintertime drink.
So we did the opposite. And look at the fun we’re having!
Beantown Mai Tai
1 oz. Absolut Boston
.5 oz Cointreau
.5 oz Myers’s rum
.5 oz apricot brandy
Combine in a cocktail glass and top with a splash each of sweet & sour and pineapple juice.
SHAZAM!!!!!!!!!!
You Asked for It: Prosciutto-wrapped, Blackened Tuna with Queso Fresco & Basil over Anaheim Chile–Corn Puree
Specifically, Behind the Burner asked for it, which means you can see me making it once the segment airs in January.
In the meantime, unleash your own cooking urges with the recipe below—or swing by Poe’s Kitchen and I’ll make it just for you!
Prosciutto-wrapped, Blackened Tuna with Queso Fresco & Basil over Anaheim Chile–Corn Puree
Yields 24 holiday hors d’oeuvres, 6 starters or 4 main courses
For the Anaheim chile–corn puree
2 c. fresh corn kernels
2 ears corn, grilled and sliced into coins
Olive oil
2 c. water, plus water for boiling
1 Anaheim chile, chopped with seeds
1/2 jalapeño, chopped & deseeded
1/2 t. shallots
1/2 t. garlic
Heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
Place fresh corn kernels with a touch of olive oil in hot pan. Add shallots, garlic, and water; reduce by 1/3.
Add kernels, along with cob coins, to a pot of boiling water. Allow to cook 5-10 minutes, then remove from heat.
Add chiles; place mixture in a blender and puree into a fine sauce. Add heavy cream as needed.
Strain the sauce and allow the cream to reduce by 1/3.
For the tuna
Poe-co Loco Dust
2 T. ground cumin
2 T. dark chile powder
2 T. paprika
2 T. garlic powder
2 T. dried oregano
2 T. ground coriander
2 T. white pepper
Combine all ingredients and reserve.
24 paper-thin slices prosciutto
24 basil leaves
24 oz. (about 2 lbs.) tuna filet, cut into 24 squares
24 thin squares of queso fresco (if you cannot locate this cheese, substitute fresh mozzarella)
Olive oil
On a cutting board, lay out sliced prosciutto.
Completely cover the tuna in Poe Co Loco Dust and place the seasoned tuna in the center of each prosciutto slice. Top with a leaf of basil and a piece of cheese. Wrap prosciutto around tuna and secure with a toothpick.
Heat oil in a saute pan and sear tuna for about 30 seconds per side, or until medium rare.
To impress your friends, spoon some corn puree onto a plate, then place the tuna on top and enjoy.
Let the Lime-Zested Chips Fall Where They May!
Some people have chips on their shoulders. Ever since I arrived at the Rattlesnake, I’ve had chips on the brain.
You see, the first thing I did when I walked in the door was look at reports to see what was selling and what was not, what needed fixing and what wasn’t broken. Back then, chips and salsa were the number-1 mover. So Gordon Wilcox and I went through 16 different salsas and countless corn chips on the theory that if we could perfect the simple things, you might trust us with more complex dishes. And our plan seems to be working. My favorite ticket from last night read:
Chips and salsa
Foie gras, hen of the woods, chervil and truffle pizza
In case you’re wondering why the following recipe calls for 3 different types of salt, there are 2 reasons. First, different textures increase the chances that the salt will stick to the surface of the chip. Second, salt crystals of different sizes retain the moisture from the limes better, which means they more easily recrystallize once all of the liquid is absorbed.
Lime Salt
Yields about 2 cups.
1/2 lb. kosher salt
1/2 lb. sea salt
1/4 lb. iodized salt
20 limes
Using a microplane or a small-holed grater, zest the limes, then split and reserve.
Combine the salts.
Mix in the zest and toss in the lime halves. Allow the mixture to sit for several days in a covered container before using—it’s also good on popcorn, seafood, and chicken!
Chip Seasoning
Yields about 1 cup
1 c. lime salt
1 t. ground coriander
1 t. powdered ginger
1/2 t. powdered onion
1/2 t. powdered garlic
1/2 t. powdered cumin
1/4 t. black pepper
Toss to taste on plain tortilla chips.
When Life Gives You Leftover Cranberries, Make Scallops!
With Thanksgiving over and Christmas on the way, I’ve got cranberries on the brain. But the beauty of New England is that there’s always something coming into season, and the window of opportunity I’ve got right now opens on another of my favorites—Nantucket scallops. Nantucket scallop season lasts from November through April. Only 10 bushels of scallops are allowed per boat, per day; it takes the scallopers about four hours to shuck their catch, and then it’s on a plane to me. Thanks to them, every bite of this dish smacks of winter on the Cape.
Nantucket Scallops with Basil Cream and Cranberry Salsa
For the Cream
1 c. sour cream
1/2 c. heavy cream
1/2 c. toasted pecans
9 basil leaves
1 pinch chopped fresh garlic
1 pinch chopped fresh shallot
salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a blender; add a touch more heavy cream if too thick for your liking.
For the Salsa
2 t. dried cranberries
1 t. chopped celery
1 t. chopped fennel
3 leaves basil, chiffonaded
1 t. chopped pecans
splash of white wine
juice of 1/2 lime
Mix together and reserve.
For the Scallops
1 lb. Nantucket bay scallops
ca. 1 T butter
salt and pepper to taste
splash of white wine
upland cress (hydroponic watercress) for garnish
In a hot saute pan, melt butter, then add scallops. Allow to caramelize, season with salt and pepper, and deglaze pan with wine.
In the center of the plate, spoon a bit of the basil cream, top with the scallops, then add dollops of cranberry salsa. Garnish with cress and enjoy.
To Market, to Market
We’ve been having loads of fun the past few weeks. We whooped it up at the how2heroes.com Hoedown. We did a little cooking for the girls of wearenotmartha.com to benefit Yelp Boston’s donation to ProjectSmile. This weekend, Chef Tony Ambrose, Richard Blatterman of J. Lohr Vineyards, and I will be doing an in-home dinner to benefit the kids and kind folks of AccesSportAmerica. And back at the Rattlesnake, we’re getting fresh.
You see, Poe’s Kitchen is surrounded by daily markets. And my Unleashed menu abounds with daily specials. And that’s no coincidence. We send one of our guys up to the market (mostly Copley Plaza, then the Pru—and sometimes I’ll swing by South Station Market on my way in) to pick out the most fun, freshest ingredients of the moment. We set them out in the kitchen and brainstorm for about 10 minutes—and then we start cooking.
Instantly, when we saw those beautiful brussel sprouts, still on the stalk, we pictured braised pork shoulder with sprout-and-pancetta salsa. Then we really turned our toques into thinking caps! We took a bite of those beautiful crabapples and candied apples came immediately to mind (perhaps because I had just seen Jessie from the how2heroes crowd make them in Groton at the Herb Lyceum?). So we carved out their centers (to be used later for whipped apple cream), baked off some ginger custard, dipped the shells into a cognac caramel and we had these awesome little treats!
Meanwhile, for my new Market Tacos, I had ordered some goat. We braised it in a jalapeño broth while steaming some Peruvian potatoes, which we folded into fresh, homemade corn tortillas. The remainder of the potatoes we creamed and added pureed cilantro and purple cauliflower. There were some beet greens, so we chiffonaded these and sauteed them. Finally, we whipped up our purple cabbage-and-chile pepper slaw and voilà! We now have Braised Goat Tacos with Spicy Red Cabbage Slaw, Sauteed Beet Greens, Peruvian Potato Cream, and Peppered Topsfield, MA, Goat Cheese in Purple Potato-Corn Tortillas.
I like this taco so much that I’m going to keep it on the menu for a bit—but don’t worry! For the restless of palate, there will still be a new Market Taco available each day. I’ll see you at Poe’s Market—I mean kitchen!
For That Most Wonderful Bipolar Time of Year: Chef’s Salad with Sage-Barley Vinaigrette
When I think of fall, I think of the smell of sage, which by November is one of the last herbs standing in my garden. Sage is a calming herb for me; historically, it has been believed to ward off evil and to aid in healing snake bites. I also think of barley—as in a good bowl of beef-barley stew with a hearty autumn beer. Hmmm… we might be on to something here? Sage…snakes…barley…bars…it all comes together in a vision of meals at Poe’s Kitchen that can ward off and warm up those first few evil cold nights.
Sure enough, it’s that funky time of year in New England when 60-degree sunshine alternates with freezing rain. Nothing evens out the weather’s bipolar disorder like a good pumpkin ale paired with an Indian-summery chef’s salad of Boston Bibb lettuce, eggs, Virginia ham, whiskey-cured bacon, Vermont cheddar, onions, tomatoes, and sage-barley vinaigrette. With the recipe for this dressing, just think of all the salads you can make at home to use up leftover turkey and undo some of the damage after Thanksgiving,,,
Sage-Barley Vinaigrette
1/2 c. sage leaves
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 t. minced garlic
1/2 t. mined shallots
1 c. olive oil
1/3 c. red wine vinegar
1/4 c. brown sugar
1/3 c. barley, cooked and reserved
Puree all ingredients except cooked barley with a mixer. Add barley and set aside, preferably for 24 hours.
Not for the faint of heart: Bourbon-Infused Bacon & Tasso Ham
We’ve been getting a lot of delightful, much-appreciated praise for our brunch special, the Bloody Mary & Bourbon Bacon Benedict. Or, to be more specific, the Bloody Mary–Infused Green Chile Cornbread Topped with House Cured, American Honey -& Whiskey–Infused Bacon & Tasso Ham, Queso Fresco, Guadalajara Butter, Bloody Mary, Vodka & Butter–Poached Eggs & Jalapeño Hollandaise.
If that sounds like a mouthful, wait until you taste it.
Your flaming, bloodied eggs are waiting!
Just how do you infuse bacon and ham with honey and whiskey? Funny you should ask, because I’ve got the recipe right here. All you need is a smoker and an attitude.
Obviously, this produces a whole heap of meat—but that’s the beauty of it: you’ll be in the pink all winter long. (If you want to reduce the yield, however, don’t hesitate to send a comment; I’ll walk you through the revisions.)
Honey & Whiskey–Infused Tasso Ham
5 lbs. pork sirloin
1 3/4 c. curing salt
1 1/2 c. white sugar
1 T. cayenne pepper
2 T. onion powder
2 T. garlic powder
2 T. ground mace
2 T. smoked paprika
1 T. dried sage
1 T. dried thyme
2 T. honey
3 c. Wild Turkey American Honey liqueur
3 c. Jack Daniels
Rub pork with all dry ingredients. Place on a roasting rack in a shallow pan. Spoon honey, liqueur and bourbon over the pork. Transfer the pork to a baking sheet and allow it to cure atop a wire rack for at least 5 days, pouring the pan juices over the top of the pork twice daily.
On the 5th day, dry smoke the pork for up to 12 hours with mesquite and applewood chips at 165 degrees.
Honey & Whiskey–Infused Bacon
1 pork belly
1 3/4 c. curing salt
1 1/2 c. white sugar
1 T. cayenne pepper
2 T. onion powder
2 T. garlic powder
2 T. ground mace
2 T. smoked paprika
1 T. dried sage
1 T. dried thyme
black peppercorns and coriander to taste
2 T. honey
3 c. Wild Turkey American Honey liqueur
6 c. Jack Daniels
Season the pork belly with dry rub and allow it to rest for one day, turning it over halfway through. Then cut the belly into workable bacon-size blocks, about 5 x 5 inches. Season with black peppercorn and coriander, then place into a large plastic container. Pour all of the alcohol and honey into the container, cover and allow to brine for up to 4 days.
On the 5th day, remove pork belly from brine and hang for the rest of the day to dry.
Then cold smoke the bacon for up to 12 hours. Slice thin and cook to order.
You know what we do with it at Poe’s Kitchen once it’s ready—but what will you do? The possibilities are endless. Tell me all about them!
And now a few words from the folks at Stuff, Improper & UrbanDaddy
To give out a shout-out for a shout-out:
UrbanDaddy gives four trotters up to our Bloody Mary Eggs Benedict with Bourbon Bacon (which is curing as we speak!)!
Stuff stuffs down our nachos!
And The Improper gives me props by taking me out to dinner! (Check out the current issue at your nearest kiosk and you’ll see what I mean.)
It was my birthday this week—and these are the kinds of gifts that keep on giving.
How I Roll on Rosh Hashanah, or, When Poe’s Kitchen Is in Someone Else’s Home
I’ve done a lot of off-property catering over the years, for three reasons. Charitable causes are number one. Two and three are because it’s fun and because it’s fun. I find that when I cook in people’s homes for them and several of their closest friends, we have the opportunity to really connect over food. It is truly the most relaxed and intimate setting to cook in. I get eye contact; I get verbal feedback—and you can bet that when I overhear an “mmmm….that’s good” or a “wow, that sauce is incredible,” I’m mentally writing the next Unleashed Menu. It’s a daily treat to build a menu from scratch at the restaurant—but it’s easy, I’ve got staff to help me. It’s a real adventure to build a menu from scratch in a strange kitchen, flying solo with only a chef’s knife and whatever equipment the owner makes available.
This past weekend I went to New York to cook a Rosh Hashanah dinner for someone whom I consider a dear friend—someone who has unknowingly been a strong influence on my career, in terms of both my creative direction and my business sense. He shares the crowning title of “People I Love to Cook For,” and here’s why: he too accepts my nutty-professor approach to cooking, based on endless curiosity, and he too understands that fine dining doesn’t mean always mean foie gras and crystal. It emphasizes simple fun with high-quality ingredients in any setting that brings good people together. And it’s their voices I hear in my head as I cook.
Once I’ve accepted a gig, here’s the general sequence of events:
1. E-mails are exchanged with menu ideas. Everything from the season and likes/dislikes to religion and allergies are discussed. In this case, there was no pork, no shellfish, no dairy, no vinegar, no raw fish—talk about taking all of my favorite tricks out of the book!
2. A menu is presented.
3. The atmsophere is discussed; a sense of how the evening will unfold begins to develop.
4. Flights are booked; hotels are booked.
5. As preparation on the ground begins, 16 hours in advance, time is of the essence, stress levels build, and confidence is tested.
6. Cooking from scratch begins—I must get organized quickly! The last few hours before guests arrive in someone else’s home are always the most intense!
7. I have one hour to to run to the hotel, shower, put on my best chef’s coat, and return to the house for a meet and greet!
Exposure is the most interesting part of catering versus cooking at Poe’s Kitchen. In my own place, I have time and space to meditate and regroup before the dinner rush begins. In another person’s home, I’m constantly on display. No cursing when I burn myself, no one but me to clean up the mess, no one even to demonstrate my methods to. And this brings me humbly back to my roots. Real cooking happens when it’s for people you love and respect. How do I take that feeling back into a professional environment? One course at a time…
***
The menu, for your approval.
The C Family
Rosh Hashanah Dinner Celebration 2009
Appetizers
Fig & Pine Nut Butter Stacks
Gravlax on Cucumber with Caper, Onion & Blackberry Compote
Minted Mediterranean Vegetable Cous Cous “Spring Rolls” with Leek Dipping Sauce
Salad:
Apple Carpaccio Salad
Arugula~ Champagne and Apple Vinaigrette~ McIntosh Apples~ Strawberry Honey Glaze~ Cashew & Cinnamon Sugar Dust
Soup:
Mrs. C’s Secret Recipe of Chicken Soup
Traditions:
Potato and Noodle Kugel & Gefilte fish
Entrees:
Trio Plate of:
Pan Seared Coriander Cilantro Chicken
Apple & Tomatillo Salsa
Saffron Infused Celery Root Puree~ Leek and Scallion Nest
Apricot & Mint Stuffed Tenderloin of Beef
Sun dried Apricot, Basil & Mint Stuffed Filet ~ Balsamic Jerusalem Artichoke & Garlic Mashed Potatoes ~ Veal Stock Reduction
Cabbage Wrapped Roasted Sea Bass
Upon a duo of Beet Borscht and Tzimmes Purees ~ Date and Acorn Squash “Salsa” and Fennel Pollen
Dessert will be Purchased
Shana Tova Umetukah!
Culinary Artistry: The Syllabus!
I feel like Rodney Dangerfield in the movie Back to School. Ten years ago, if you’d asked me to step to the front of a classroom full of 20- and 21-year-olds and try my hand at teaching, I would have laughed in your face and kept my hand where it belonged, on the handle of my saute pan.
But now, in retrospect, it seems I never really left the classroom. It just happens to look like a kitchen. I was 23, an instructor from the Greenbrier Resort told me that in order to be a good chef you have to be good at the following five things:
1. You have to be a good cook.
2. You have to be a good manager.
3. You have to be a good businessperson.
4. You have to be a good parent and a good citizen (because you will probably raise some kids in that kitchen!).
And most importantly,
5. You have to be a good teacher.
I’ve lived by these five rules ever since.
I started teaching at Newbury College last year. Not with the goal of switching professions—and certainly not for the money. I was simply very curious to know what schools were teaching the chefs of the future and wanted to be a part of it.
My first class was conducted online from Santiago, Chile, where I e-mailed the students a great chapter from Becoming a Chef titled “Travel, Eating, and Reading: Learning Something New Everyday”—which is just what I was doing, teaching by example as I discovered that the South America you see on CNN is not the warm, wonderful South America you meet in the kitchen and around the dinner table. In the book are some quotes from Lydia Shire—someone I never thought I would actually meet, but who has turned out to be a strong influence on my career—who noted that kids should spend less money on Walkmans (now iPods) and more money and time on travel and education. Guess who I quoted on Monday night during the intro to my fall seminar, Culinary Artistry?
The beauty of it all I’ve grown to love teaching. In our industry we work a lot of hours with some happy people and some unhappy people, some cheery optimists and some bitter drunks. The industry can be tough on us all. But there is nothing more restorative than walking into a group full of eager young people who excited to take everything to take all that fresh learning and apply it in the real world! As they learn and grow, so do I—while remembering just why I love this business so much.
Here are a few key items on my syllabus. It’s already shaping up to be a great class.
October 5
Cooking for Ideas: Where to Look While We Cook and While We Live
Assignment- Research the top 50 Restaurants in the U.S. and World (guidance will be provided on where to locate this information) then choose one that you would like to research further for your final exam/paper.
October 26
Realities of Our Workplace and How to Create Around Them?
We will discuss how to create around the demands of staffing, bosses, ownership, shortages, costs and running your business. (case study)
December 7th
Building Your Happy Place
How do you inspire those around you to create? How do you create? What is your best environment and time of day for creating food ideas? How do you work around the hectic schedules of school and work to create? What does your ideal creative space look like? (with reading assignment from the book The Six Thinking Hats).
