Another Day in Poe's Kitchen at The Rattlesnake
Chef Brian Poe shows you the world in the back of the house.The Flavor of Friendship: Doughnuts
People have always been my favorite part of the restaurant business. Camaraderie is a source of warmth beyond the stove, and when I find a way to someone’s heart through food, it is always an inspiration. As the summer comes around again, we get to reunite with many an old friend—and their tastebuds—on the roof deck, at backyard BBQs, baseball games, and the beach.
Doughnuts I’m particularly fond of because they remind me of a dear friend I made when I first moved to Boston to run the restaurnat at the Boston Millennium Hotel, then called Seasons. It was a snowy Sunday night in January, and I was doing double duty as manager and chef. The snowstorm had gained momentum, so I sent my cooks and servers home early to beat the dangers of a Nor’easter. The restaurant had already closed for the night and as I did a pass through to turn off the lights and the stereo and lock up the wine, I looked up to see two people sitting at a table, menus and glasses of wine in hand.
I panicked, because not only did I have no servers, I had already put all of my mise en place away. I quickly called room service down to help me if need be. As I approached the table, I asked if I could be of assistance. I got the kindest response. The gentleman told me that that table was the one his mother had always sat at when she would came to Seasons, and that he and his girlfriend had just gotten engaged right there on the spot. Time for a celebration! They assured me they were not too hungry—but that they certainly loved food. So I took them back into the kitchen and we prepared a dish together. As we cooked, we began to exchange great stories about New England, especially its food. Together we ate the dish that we prepared—which happened to include one of my first takes on the baked brie empanada!—and then I bade the lovebirds goodnight.
A few months later, the phone in the kitchen rang. It was Tom, the gentleman from that evening. He thanked me for the wonderful evening and asked if I would like to join him and his fiancée Alla on their boat over the summer. So we made a plan to meet up in mid-July.
Now, the girl that I was dating then was a little worried about this boat, picturing some tiny little fishing vessel, as was I. So we did a little research and, just in case, booked a room at the nearest hotel to the dock. But once we passed through the gates of the club, we found on the other side no little dinghy but an 80-foot yacht with 3 bedrooms! (Cancel that reservation please—we’ll be staying afloat tonight!)
The evening that followed was filled with great wine, incredible food, and fantastic conversation. Near the end of the meal, Tom turned to me and said, “You know, this is probably not something that I should share with a chef but I’ve got a really fun, great dessert…” After such a fun-filled evening, how could I say no?
So he snuck back into the cabin and came out with blueberry ice cream, some caramel, and, of all things—a box of doughnuts. I have to admit, I was a little confused. But he just smiled—and turned on the grill. Within a matter of minutes we were plating up a messy, fun dessert of grilled doughnuts for everyone. There on the water, it was divine, and it has become one of my favorite summer treats—at home and now at Poe’s Kitchen!
Sure, we’ve added a little sass by making our own cheesecake, huckleberry, and chocolate chip ice creams, then topping it off with a champagne foam. But I’m not going to lie to you—I stay true to Tom and Alla’s recipe by using Dunkin’ Donuts! And they, in turn, have stayed true friends to me.
Now I invite you, new friends and old, to swing by the restaurant for a taste…
My Multi-Talented Morel Vinaigrette
At Poe’s Kitchen right now we’re serving my take on an empanada: a puff-pastry square stuffed and baked with brie, then drizzled with morel vinaigrette. It’s a dish I’ve served to everyone from Curt Schilling (see here) to guests of the Legacy Dinner that marked the closure of Seasons in 2007, where I cooked with Lydia Shire, Jasper White, Peter McCarthy, and other fellow chefs of the legendary restaurant.
In fact, I’ve been tweaking it since around 2006; what I love about it is the versatility of the components throughout the year. For example, when beets are at their peak, I roast them in jalapeno and citrus and add them to the dish in paper-thin slices for garnish. I also switch the mushrooms in the vinaigrette depending on the season; there are grilled portobellos in the version I serve with my warm portobello salad (see the regular menu here).
Here’s the recipe for the dressing; have fun trying different ‘shrooms like I do!
Morel Vinaigrette
1 lb. morel mushrooms, cleaned
1 t. chopped garlic
1 t. chopped shallots
1 t. chopped fresh herbs (I like oregano, thyme, rosemary and basil)
2 c. olive oil
2 T. balsamic vinegar
Remove the stems from the mushrooms and sauté them in a pan; set aside.
Dip mushrooms into olive oil and shake off excess oil. Season with salt and pepper and sauté in the hot pan for about 5 minutes. Reserve juices and chop the caps with the stems.
In a mixing bowl, combine all remaining ingredients with a wire whip; add the diced mushrooms and juices. Reserve at room temperature. Can be refrigerated for up to one week.
Put Your New Year’s Resolutions Where Your Mouth Is
The current Unleashed menu at Poe’s Kitchen sneaks a little healthiness into every dish. But don’t worry, you won’t even notice!
Thai tuna salad with seaweed & baby tatsoi in peanut vinaigrette
Quinoa-crusted salmon salad with berry-chipotle salsa & sweet potato “croutons”
Grilled portobello mushroom salad with pickled onions & St. Andres blue cheese
Revel at the Rattlesnake TONIGHT!
We’re serving up some brand-spanking-new specials to ring in the New Year, along with a few recent favorites. Hey, you’ll need sustenance for all the dancing you’ll be doing—2 DJs on 2 floors are in the house tonight! $20 cover.
CHILI CON CARNE EN FUEGO!!
Spicy beef & black bean chili con carne with cayenne oyster crackers and jalapeño cheddar
7/cup 10/bowl
HAPPY NEW YEAR NACHOS!
Tasso, pork loin & ham braised in Chilean olive oil, Hoppin’ John’s black-eyed-pea salsa, fried Swiss chard & Vermont cheddar sauce
14
TRUFFLE & HEN OF THE WOODS PIZZA
Grilled tortilla with artichoke-lime puree, mozzarella, pepperoni, black truffles, hen of the woods mushrooms & chervil
16
PRIME RIB POE DUNKER
Peppercorn-rubbed, shaved prime rib sandwich served French dip style with horseradish-sage mayo, Brie & onion dipping sauce, black lava sea salt & jalapeño powder
14
***
CHOCOLATE CAKE
Chocolate chiffon sponge cake with peanut butter Italian buttercream & chocolate ganache
6
APPLE-RAISIN-CINNAMON EMPANADAS
With apple cider ice cream
6
COCONUT-JALAPEÑO SORBET
It’s cool, then hot! With cinnamon-dusted tortillas
6
CHOCOLATE TACO
Berry & marshmallow vanilla bean ice cream, graham crackers, chocolate drizzle & seared marshmallow–white chocolate “salsa”
6
An Eggnog Toast to You and Yours This Christmas!
Poe’s Kitchen will be closed tomorrow—but the bar in our heads is always open. After we put together a kickass Christmas playlist that put us in the mood, Lovewell—our assistant GM went to work with a bottle of Bailey’s Caramel and Absolut Vanilia as I got on a roll with the other ingredients, and we finished our creation, an adaptation of an old New York Times recipe, off with mint. No recipe today—but you get the picture!
Rattlesnake Eggnog
Yields 12 servings
1 qt. milk
1 qt. heavy cream
2 cinnamon sticks
1 vanilla bean, split
5 cloves
10 blades mace
12 egg yolks
1 & 1/2 cups sugar
1 & 1/2 cups Absolut Vanilia
1 & 1/2 cups Bailey’s Caramel
1 qt. half-and-half OR 1 qt. light cream OR 1 c. heavy cream plus 3 c. milk
1 T. vanilla extract
freshly grated nutmeg to taste
fresh mint leaves to garnish
Combine milk and spices, including vanilla bean, in a heavy saucepan and let them infuse over lowest possible heat for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, combine yolks and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until mixed.
Bring milk to a boil and gradually whisk it into the yolk mixture. Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring steadily with a wooden spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until foam subsides and mixture thickens to consistency of heavy cream. (It should thickly coat the back of a wooden spoon.) Do not boil, or mixture will curdle.
Strain mixture into a large bowl and let cool to room temperature. Stir in vodka, liqueur, half-and-half (or equivalent), vanilla and nutmeg.
Refrigerate eggnog for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Just before serving, dust top of eggnog with additional nutmeg.
HAPPY HOOCH-FILLED HOLIDAYS!
The Hit Machine: Poe’s Kitchen’s Customer Playlist
The menu at Poe’s Kitchen is constantly evolving thanks to our customers—whose insights, cravings, and even quirks inspire me in the kitchen. So why not get their input on music to set the mood of the Rattlesnake?
From the requests we solicited both in the restaurant and on our Facebook page, we came up with an initial playlist that’s been growing and growing ever since, with great help from all of you. It’s as eclectic as we are, ranging from punk to R&B, classic rock to country, hip-hop to jazz. (Special thanks to Sara Steele Rogers at The Daily Obsession.)
So what do you think? What should we add? How should we organize it? We want to hear from you—so you can hear what you like!
Send Me on My Way / Rusted Root
I Ran (So Far Away) / A Flock of Seagulls
Hips Don’t Lie / Shakira (feat. Wyclef Jean)
Hang Me Up to Dry / Cold War Kids
Dancin’ on My Grave / Ghostland Observatory
Papa Don’t Preach / Glee Cast
Where Is My Mind? / Pixies
Blues Traveler Travelogue / Blues Traveler
Stars Fell on Alabama / Billie Holiday
Who Says / John Mayer
All the Small Things / Blink 182
ABC / Jackson 5
Touch of Grey / Grateful Dead
Ring of Fire / Social Distortion
Smooth / Santana (feat. Rob Thomas)
Crash into Me / Dave Matthews
Don’t Stop Believin’ / Journey
Baby / Brandy
Vultures / John Mayer Trio
Breakdown / Jack Johnson
Say / John Mayer
Everyday / Dave Matthews Band
Ball and Chain / Social Distortion
Toes / Zac Brown Band
Stay (Wasting Time) / Dave Matthews Band
Tempted / Squeeze
Start Me Up / The Rolling Stones
Soul City / Southern Culture On the Skids
Scarlet Begonias / Sublime
Iko Iko / Dixie Cups
Oye Como Va / Santana
I Know You Want Me (Calle Ocho) / Pitbull
Here Comes the Hotstepper (Heartical Mix) / Ini Kamoze
Vasoline / Stone Temple Pilots
C.R.E.A.M. / Wu-Tang Clan
(If You’re Wondering If I Want You To) I Want You To / Weezer
Sweet Jane / The Velvet Underground
Fall to Pieces / Velvet Revolver
Wolf Like Me / TV On the Radio
Neighborhood #3 (Power Out) / Arcade Fire
Tessellate / Tokyo Police Club
Killing Me Softly With His Song / Fugees
Sure Shot / Beastie Boys
Going Back to Cali / LL Cool J
Kiss / Prince & The Revolution
Mexican Radio / Wall of Voodoo
Dirty Water / The Standells
That’s Not My Name / The Ting Tings
Sexual Healing / Jules
I’m Alright (Theme from Caddyshack) / Kenny Loggins
And She Was / Talking Heads
The New Pollution / Beck
Soul Meets Body / Death Cab for Cutie
Hey Baby / No Doubt & Bounty Killer
Soma / The Strokes
Party in the U.S.A. / Miley Cyrus
Some Beach / Blake Shelton
Whiskey River (Live) / Willie Nelson
Manhattan / Kings of Leon
Dear Doctor / The Rolling Stones
With a Little Help from My Friends / Bornagen Beatles
Frigid Out There, Tropical in Here: The Beantown Mai Tai
We figured the obvious thing to do with Absolut Boston would be to highlight the black tea flavors to create a warming wintertime drink.
So we did the opposite. And look at the fun we’re having!
Beantown Mai Tai
1 oz. Absolut Boston
.5 oz Cointreau
.5 oz Myers’s rum
.5 oz apricot brandy
Combine in a cocktail glass and top with a splash each of sweet & sour and pineapple juice.
SHAZAM!!!!!!!!!!